H&M Vitalising All Over Multi Use Oil

H&M Vitalising All Over Multi Use Oil – £7.99 – 100ml

What is it?

 A multipurpose oil for the bath, body and hair. I use it primarily on my face. Occasionally I rub it into the ends of my hair as it mildly softens, detangles and adds a sheen to my hair. Those with fine hair should use it sparingly, I have naturally curly hair that is perpetually experiencing a drought so it soaks it all up without appearing greasy.

wp-image--868766727
H&M Vitalising All Over Oil . 100ml . £7.99

Ingredients

Natural and Organic Cosmetic certified by Ecocert Greenlife according to Ecocert Standard available at http://cosmetics.ecocert.com .

Sunflower Seed Oil, Jojoba Seed Oil, Organic Fragrance, Grape Seed Oil, Limonene, Tochoperol, Citral, Rosemary Leaf Extract, Linalool (Geraniol, Citronellool, Coumarin, Farnesol).

wp-image-52379100
Ingredients list – 99.5% from natural origin, 97% from organic farming.

Synopsis..quite a long one:

My skincare routine has significantly changed over the last 2 years and so has my skin. I transitioned from using conventional creams and commercially available lotions to more oil based and ‘green beauty’ items. My skin has subsequently thanked me for this and has comes leaps and bounds in terms of texture, tone and overall health.

Since experimenting with different facial oils I have come to learn which oils are best for my skin and which ones I should avoid like the plague. I have acne prone, oily – combo skin and I am a big advocate of using oil on oily skin – believes me it works. Having oily skin can be due to the fact your skin may actually be dry and your sebaceous glands are overproducing oil in order to compensate for this imbalance.

By switching to oil cleansers and facial oils my skin is nowhere near as oily as it previously used to be and I have noted a significant reduction in breakouts.

I picked up the H&M Vitalising All Over Multi Use Oil after pumping a bit of the tester on to the back of my hand. I initially walked away from it without paying much attention because I am an oil snob…as it’s £7.99 and it’s from H&M I assumed it was just going to be full of silicones and mineral oil.

The silky texture, lemon scent and the speed at which the oil absorbed into my skin leaving behind a radiant sheen meant I had to go back for a double take. A quick look at the ingredients made me realise it was made up of many oils that agree with my skin and address some of my skin concerns such as whiteheads, dry patches, fine lines and hyperpigmentation.

wp-image-1376143380
Lemon scented, medium consistency oil which does leave a sheen with applied sparingly but can appear greasy if used in excess. Personally, I love looking like basted turkey in the evenings.

This is definitely a night time oil; it does have a little bit of a clammy feeling to it but if you use it sparingly that shouldn’t be an issue. I’ve been applying it to my face before bed the last month or so and it has helped rapidly relieve the inflammation of a reaction I was experiencing (redness that usually lasts up to a week post reaction had subsided within 2 days) as well alleviating areas of peeling and flaking. My skin in the mornings is supple, noticeably more radiant and areas of congestion have cleared giving the skin a smoother appearance. Some nights I have skipped having a multi layer routine and opted to just tone and oil my face to see the effects….always gave consistent results.

Not bad for £7.99 (and at 100ml it will last you quite some time) and I would call it a general all rounder for those of us with oily-comb skin. In terms the acne side of things I can always guarantee a few small whiteheads in the morning if I am testing a new product but since using this at night that seems to have stopped.

wp-image-160114350
Pump mechanism – I generally tend to use half a pump for my face.

The fact it contains essential oils means some of you may want to approach this with caution. I know many people generally do not take too well to using essential oils on their face. Essential oils don’t seem to bother me, so if you feel we have similar tastes in skincare then I would definitely recommend picking up a bottle of this.

I generally tend to spend more (per transaction) on skincare than makeup (on average my makeup ranges from a few pounds to about £75 whereas some of my skincare can cost up to £150). I like to invest in skincare that is both effective and has an evidence base to substantiate it’s marketing claims. So, I tend to scrutinise ingredients list to ensure my money is going towards products that are formulated for efficacy as well being respectful to biological nature of my skin. This is to ensure I don’t amass ludicrous amounts of nonsense that will have negligible benefits for my skin. It also ensures I don’t fall into the Devil’s work…blogger hype.

The following is overview of the benefits of some of the ingredients in the H&M…it is by no means exhaustive but it’s better than “oh my god, this oil is the best thing ever…you need it.”

wp-image--909551857

Scientific evidence:

Sunflower Seed Oil:

  • Reduces the size of whiteheads/blackheads and evens skin texture

One of the components in sunflower seed oils is linoleic acid (omega-6). Research has shown that acne prone individuals tend to have low levels of linoleic acid in their skin sebum (Downing et al. 2017) which in turn leads to the formation of comedones (whiteheads and blackheads). So if you are acne prone it can be seen as beneficial to incorporate facial oils with a higher linoleic acid content into your skincare routine e.g grapeseed oil, sunflower seed oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rosehip oil etc.

Letawe et al.(1998) found topical application of linoleic acid on acne prone individuals over a period of a month lead to a 25% reduction in size of microcomedones (whiteheads and blackheads).

  • Increases hydration levels.

 A randomised control trial on adults found that sunflower oil can preserve the integrity of the corneum stratum (the outermost layer of skin) and increase hydration levels (Danby et al. 2012). So by increasing hydration levels your skin will look and feel supple. Suprisingly, the paper also said topical application of olive was found to increase the likelihood of developing atopic dermatitis as it was shown to compromise the intergrity of the corneum stratum.

  • Improves your superficial skin barrier.

A randomised control trial on premature babies in Egypt found topical application of sunflower seed oil lead to a highly significant reduction in the incidence of nosocomial (hospital-acquired infections caused by viral, bacterial, and fungal pathogens) infections. Premature babies have their skin barrier compromised leaving them highly predisposed to acquiring infectious pathogens and topical application of sunflower seed oil was found to significantly improve the condition of their skin and in turn reduced their susceptibility to disease (Darmstadt et al. 2004).

Jojoba Oil

  • Good compatibility with natural sebum.

 Research has shown jojoba oil to have a broad spectrum of properties: analgesic, antipyretic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial and anti-parasitic (Bruneton, 1999; van Boven et al.,1997 cited in (Aburjai and Natsheh 2003)). In addition to this it is also said to have good compatibility with the skin’s natural sebum allowing it to reach a healthy equilibrium (so I assuming it will be great for those of use with oily combo skin as it may help to even out the disparity in sebum production across the skin).

  • Humectant

Jojoba oil is a non greasy, lightweight oil that displays humectant properties. It creates a protective layer over the skin that prevents the loss of moisture and works particularly well in quenching dehydrated and dry (Dweck 1997 cited in (Aburjai and Natsheh 2003)).

Grape Seed Oil

I was not able to find sufficient evidence about the effects of Grape seed oil on the skin but there does exist some literature on grape seed extract. I generally tend to find my skin is very amenable to grape seed oil and I have found products that include grape seed oil/extract in the inci list tends to smooth out my skin texture.

  • Anti oxidative properties

A component of notable mention in Grape Seed extract is Proanthocyanidin – a powerful anticoxidant which is said to be 20 times more powerful Vitamin E and 50 times more powerful then Vitamin C (Shi et al. 2003) (I have not been able to verify if this was when it was ingested or topically applied because I am going to admit to reading just the abstract on that one).

  • Reducing hyperpigmentation.

I did find a paper which stated that Proanthocyanidin reduced UV induced hyperpigmention when taken orally (Yamakoshi et al. 2004)…but that was a trial on pigs so interpret that as you wish.

  • Anti-aging properties.

 Proanthocyanidin is said to bind with collagen in turn promoting youthfull looking skin with improved skin elasticity and cellular health (Shi et al. 2003).

Rosemary Leaf Extract

  • Protection against sun damage

 There exists extensive research on the effects of caffeic acid – an important constitute of Rosemary Leaf Extract which again has an array of anti oxidative properties. One particular paper said that caffeic acid is able to permeate the superficial skin layer and protect against UV radiation induced skin damage by preventing oxidative damage (Saija et al. 1999).

Now run off, grab yourself a bottle and then we can all sit around and cry about how it’s sold out everywhere…if you do manage to get a bottle please tag me in the photo itself so I can read your thoughts too….sometimes when you tag me in your captions I don’t see it because of the volume notifications I receive.

Thanks for reading! Let me know if this post was useful….because I don’t want to waste my time writing these….I salute all of you who are committed to consistently posting, it’s hard work!

References:

Aburjai, T. and Natsheh, F. 2003. Plants used in cosmetics. Phytotherapy Research 17(9), pp. 987-1000.

Danby, S., AlEnezi, T., Sultan, A., Lavender, T., Chittock, J., Brown, K. and Cork, M. 2012. Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care. Pediatric Dermatology 30(1), pp. 42-50.

Darmstadt, G., Badrawi, N., Law, P., Ahmed, S., Bashir, M., Iskander, I. and Said, D. et al. 2004. Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt. The Pediatric Infectious Disease Journal 23(8), pp. 719-725.

Downing, D., Stewart, M., Wertz, P. and Strauss, J. 2017. Essential fatty acids and acne [Online].

Letawe, Boone and Pierard. 1998. Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology 23(2), pp. 56-58.

Saija, A., Tomaino, A., Cascio, R., Trombetta, D., Proteggente, A., De Pasquale, A. and Uccella, N. et al. 1999. Ferulic and caffeic acids as potential protective agents against photooxidative skin damage. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture 79(3), pp. 476-480.

Shi, J., Yu, J., Pohorly, J. and Kakuda, Y. 2003. Polyphenolics in Grape Seeds—Biochemistry and Functionality. Journal of Medicinal Food 6(4), pp. 291-299.

Yamakoshi, J., Sano, A., Tokutake, S., Saito, M., Kikuchi, M., Kubota, Y. and Kawachi, Y. et al. 2004. Oral intake of proanthocyanidin-rich extract from grape seeds improves chloasma. Phytotherapy Research 18(11), pp. 895-899.

The Problem with “Poofie-phenol-poofgenium-best-thing-ever-you-have-to-buy-this-ol”

I felt the need to write you all a love letter…a love letter that I hope will serve as a gentle reminder not to believe all you hear, see, read and watch. This has been mulling over in my mind for quite some time and before I decide to start pumping out blog posts (which will be very few and far between) of my own I felt it was necessary to give you this prelude:

Over my short time here on Instagram I have come to learn that the majority of you who follow me on here are young women of an impressionable age. Although Instagram ‘Bloggers’ like myself showcase things of a frivolous nature, there exists the potential for young women/men to feel pressured into amassing droves of skincare and makeup for no apparent reason. You may unknowingly purchase an item on the basis that the packaging is aesthetically pleasing or to quell the intrinsic desire to be at the forefront of the latest blogger fad. A fad that will undoubtedly be tossed to the side when the next ‘best’ thing comes along.

Firstly, do not for a second take these inexhaustible collections of skincare and makeup you see masquerading on here as the norm…because they are not, they are not the norm. Among us we have collectors/enthusiasts/experimenters/ and the downright delusional who are of a niche group…a nano group…in comparison to the global population. Your small collection is enough…make peace with that and scroll on. I can’t help but share with you my personal remorse in seeing how my once compact collection has exponentially risen in size due to the insatiable influence of Instagram.

Secondly, this goes out to some of you Undergraduates. Now forgive me if I am being presumptuous but take it as advice as if I were your older Poofie sister. I receive DMs and comments quite regularly asking/saying something along the lines of “I wish I could afford this/how are you able to buy all this stuff?”…If you are an undergraduate who has negligible to no source of income then I urge you not to feel pressured into using your tuition money on the latest ABH Glow Kit… or the £100 jade roller that will drain your lympathetic nodes… I will very kindly, at no expensive drain those lympathetic nodes for you…by beating your face with a cultural utensil passed down from ancestors…the rolling pin.

Take it from Poofie, as an undergraduate I had no job, lived away from home and survived on hand-outs from the Bank of Mumma + Poppa du Poof. I had 1 makeup bag with about 5 ‘drugstore’ items and my best friend had an Urban Decay shadow palette that saw us through to graduation. I bought my first luxury makeup item when I was 23 years old and Palmer’s cocoa butter was the only skincare product that graced my bodily existence up until then too. With regards to my financial situation – I’ve been in a full time, graduate job from a time some of you were still in high school/secondary hence my humble earnings allow me to go bat sh*t crazy on occasions.

So my message to you all in the words of Westwood is ‘Buy less, choose well.’ Take from this blog post 3 things:

  1. What I want you all to bear in mind for the future is that often certain ingredients are hailed as ‘miracles’ or ‘scientifically proven to have x effect on x ailment’ but when you have a way with words you can sell ice cubes to eskimos. I have seen seen this occur all too often in cleverly executed marketing campaigns. Consumers flock in their hoards to purchase products they have been enticed into needing/wanting on the basis of misconstrued scientific facts. Unashamedly, I will put my hands up and say I have been there, done that, read the spiel, believed the hype and purchased the product.

Let me give you an example. There exists quite a popular product (that will remain un-named but it is skincare – and no, if you DM me I will not tell you) on the market at the moment. I have seen it many a time on my Instagram feed, people have purchased it in bulk and I myself have parted with cash for it.

One of the the ‘hero’ ingredients is suggestively embezzled across all across the range’s packaging and the brand’s website boasts an impressive list of ‘benefits’ this ingredient displays. Alas, you can only pull the wool over my eyes for so long before my inner geek kicks in. A quick literature search found that there exists very limited scientific evidence on the benefits of the said ingredient in relation to humans. Yes, there exists research to say there were promising results on a few reconstituted cells in a petri dish and some laboratory mice but whether these results are transferable to humans is open to debate.

So in a nutshell I could make a product, with a hypothetical ingredient called, let’s say ‘Poofie-phenol-poofgenium-best-thing-ever-you-have-to-buy-this-ol” and carry out a couple of experiments on a few mice and discover that ‘Poofie-phenol-poofgenium-best-thing-ever-you-have-to-buy-this-ol” had positive outcomes on reducing inflammation and wrinkles on mice. So then I package this up, bells and whistles and all and have a blurb at the back that says ‘research has shown ‘Poofie-phenol-poofgenium-best-thing-ever-you-have-to-buy-this-ol” has wrinkle and inflammation reducing properties’ – I am telling you no lie, research has shown that but I am just not disclosing to you that the results were found on a creature that has a vastly different biological composition to you…that will be £450 please. The top of the ingredients list will then be full of human friendly fillers with a track record of positive results and ‘Poofie-phenol-poofgenium-best-thing-ever-you-have-to-buy-this-ol” will be hanging on by the skin of it’s teeth at the bottom of the list at a concentration so small that it’s practically non existent.

Be savvy. If you really, truly want to know what benefits any ingredients will have when topically applied to you skin, run a literature search on Google Scholar. Don’t be surprised when 80% of the results come back as experiments on lab rats.

  1. And don’t get me started on the ‘on a trial of 2 and a half women and a house elf, 125.6% or participants found after a minute later of application they were crowned Miss Universe’ drivel. Unless it it stated that the trial was a double masked, randomised cohort trial I don’t have time for it. I would expand on this further but I am tired, I’ll save explaining this for another post. But very quickly if I got together a group of individuals and told them that this product containing ‘Poofie-phenol-poofgenium-best-thing-ever-you-have-to-buy-this-ol” was going to make them look more youthful, the placebo effect and the psychological influence of knowing this product has the potential to make them appear youthful may skew the results.
  1. When products say this will give you healthier “looking’ skin or healthier ‘looking’ hair. Clever huh? Go and pick up your conditioner or one of your skincare products…are you ‘looking’ for ‘looking’…do you see it? ‘Poofie-phenol-poofgenium-best-thing-ever-you-have-to-buy-this-ol” isn’t going to give you healthy skin or hair because ‘Poofie-phenol-poofgenium-best-thing-ever-you-have-to-buy-this-ol” has not legitimately been tested on human tissue to look for cellular regeneration that leads to an actually healthy result….so we will play it safe with ‘healthy looking’ instead…that will be £450 please.

But I digress children…it’s all fun and games until the research papers come out.

With that I bide you all goodnight. This by no means is gospel, conclusive or exhaustive but I hope I have helped at least one person to become more of a savvy consumer…who’s going to need alot more than the ‘oh my god, this is amazing, I love it, best thing ever’ cookie cutter blogger gibberish that we are all, including myself have been guilty of.

Bisous

Poofie x

 

Bioderma Hydrabio Gel-Creme and Sebium Akn Fluid – Thoughts.

hydrabio-sebium

I am no dermatological expert and when it comes to things I slather on my face and I take a rather archaic approach to how I pass my judgement on them: I want results, I want results fast and I want them now. I also want beautifully succulent skin and no breakouts – not a big ask. With that being said I am going to share with you 2 moisturisers which I have been using recently that float my proverbial boat.

N.B. I have oily-combo + blemish prone skin: An oily t-zone, intermittently appearing dryness on my cheeks and my skin can be a temperamental teenager at times with its sporadic breakouts.

WHO ARE BIODERMA?

Let’s start with the Brand: Bioderma. Who are they?  Bioderma Laboratories is a French Pharmaceutical company founded in the 1970s by Jean-Noël Thorel, a Pharmacist who aimed to combine dermatology with biology to pioneer what has now come to be know as ‘dermocosmetics.’ The lab harnesses information from its own dermatological research along with opinions from dermatologists, scientific researchers, pharmacists and patients in order to create speciality skincare products for specific skin types, notably: sensitive skin, dry + dehydrated skin, aging skin, oily + blemished skin and damaged skin.

BIODERMA – HYDRABIO GEL-CREME – 40ml – R.R.P: £14.50

hydrabio

This Gel-Creme is from their ‘Hydrabio’ line – which targets dry and sensitive skin. The USP for this is the patented biological complex Aquagenium™ which is said to increase the skin’s hydration levels by boosting the circulation of water within your skin cells (I never believe claims until I have sat down and critically reviewed the research behind it, such is my professional nature but for the superficiality of this post I won’t get into the technicalities – perhaps this will be a topic for another post). Salicyclic acid is thrown in the mix to help shed superficial dead skin cells and in turn boost the skin’s radiance as is niacinamide for its anti-aging properties of reviving skin tone and texture.

Other things of of notable mention for the Gel-Creme:

  • Hypoallergenic.
  • Non-comedogenic.
  • Scented formula.
  • Paraben-free.

WHAT ARE POOFIE’S THOUGHTS?

  • I like this, in fact I love it. It quenches the thirst of my dry cheeks without making me appear or feel like a basted Christmas turkey.
  • 1-2 pumps is sufficient to moisturise my full face.
  • It has a lightweight gel-serum like texture that easily absorbs into the skin.
  • It gives a demi matte finish – there’s no overtly glowy sheen but the skin does appear revitalised.
  • It makes a fantastic makeup primer – there’s no pigment clinging to dry patches it just allows makeup to melt to become one with the skin.
  • It doesn’t break me out – I have to point out this does have a light, clean scent as I am aware fragrance can be a source of irritation for some.
  • I have mentioned in the past this is the moisturiser equivalent of the hugely popular Superdrug Simply Pure Hydrating Serum.

 

BIODERMA – SEBIUM AKN FLUID – 30ml – R.R.P £12.00

sebium

This purifying beauty fluid is from their ‘Sebium’ line – which targets oily, blemish prone skin. It is said to contain a patented complex known as ‘Fluidactiv’ which works to regulate the quality of sebum production and prevent it thickening leading to blackheads and pimples. The incorporation of  zinc gluconate  is said to curb excess sebum production and the proliferation of micro-organisms responsible for blemishes.

Other things of notable mention:

  • Scented formula
  • Hypoallergenic
  • Paraben-free
  • Non-comedogenic
  • Ingredients such as AHA esters and salicylic acid are said to smoothe the skin texture.

WHAT ARE POOFIE’S THOUGHTS?

  • I like this. I don’t love it as much as the Hydrabio.
  • I must admit I haven’t been using it as a preventative measure for breakouts nor have I analysed the effects of this on any residents on my face. My breakouts are usually hormonal, so apart from week around my time of the month I am blessed with relatively good skin.
  • However, I have been using this as a moisturiser on my oily t-zone and I have found I do appear less shiny when it has been primed with this fluid. So whenever I have a special occasion you can bet your bottom dollar this will be part of the layer cake.
  • It has a very lightweight texture, much like serum and it absorbs instantly to give a matte finish – a pea sized amount is all I need.
  • Again, it is lightly fragranced and it does not break me out.
  • When I am particularly pushed for time I mix this with the Hydrabio and find it is just as effective.
  • hydrabio-sebium-swatch
    Top: Sebium AKN fluid. Bottom: Hydrabio Gel Creme

     

    And if you’ve made it to the end – thanks for reading!